Showing posts with label Restaurant Reviews. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Restaurant Reviews. Show all posts

Tuesday, 27 September 2011

Summer catch-up; a review of the Chilli Pickle, Brighton and a cupcakes recipe!

Well it’s official. The autumn equinox has come and gone, and I’m already preparing myself for the chilly season ahead (chillis- check. Root veg- check). While there are talks of a possible Indian summer, I feel it’s time to reflect upon my (rather English) summer, having published very little on this blog over the last few months!
The Chilli Pickle, Brighton
I spent most of my summer in Plymouth, and have therefore little to say on the dining out front! My gastronomical high point of the summer has to be a visit to Brighton’s ‘The Chilli Pickle’, where I indulged in some modern yet authentic Indian cuisine, in a vibrant and trendy environment. A typical curry house it is not, don’t go there expecting a korma or a vindaloo. The chilli pickle is a lot more adventurous than that! Expect the likes of a locally-reared braised oxtail curry served with cumin pilau and cucumber onion raita, or maybe you would opt for the venison seekh kebab with caramelised onion, plum chutney and cumin all served up on a butter naan.
Tom ordered the tandoori platter!

 As a seafood junky, I quickly ordered the  ‘Moilly seafood’, which was a fragrant and medium-spiced curry of crab claws (tricky to tackle but so worth it!), juicy king prawns, tender scallops and a fish that was new to my repertoire, known as huss. The flavours of the broth were perfectly layered with a mixture of spice and sweetness, while the samphire in the broth seasoned every bite. The coconut milk created a creamy and delicate base, while the additions of ginger, cardamom and curry leaf added that kick Indian food is so renowned for!


The side that my dish arrived with was an interesting coconut rice steam cake, a texture and taste not too familiar for my palate. Although I appreciated its authenticity and novelty, I decided to gobble up my curry with some fluffy pilau rice we all shared! As a big group, we ended up ordering all the items under the ‘nibbles’ section of the menu, and I found myself addicted to the deep flavours of the original chutneys that came with the poppadoms!


On top of the great food and the stunning decor, the staff were helpful and attentive;  the Chilli Pickle really does go that extra mile to fuse together the delicious flavours of India with the extravagant quirkiness of Brighton.

Chili Pickle on Urbanspoon
www.thechillipickle.com

Birthday cupcakes!
I’ve wanted to post this for a while now and I finally got round to doing it! I made these for my 21st birthday for everyone to enjoy before a night out. My lack of scientific knowledge did give these cakes an unexpected look, but I love the quirkiness of them and felt they really represented my personality!
For the base
·         225g butter (softened for 20 seconds in the microwave)
·         225g caster sugar
·         225g self-raising flour
·         1 tsp vanilla extract
·         4 eggs
·         4 tbsp milk
For the icing
· 175g unsalted butter (slitly softened)
· 350g icing sugar
· 1 tbsp  condensed milk
· A drop of food colouring of your choice (my cakes were originally going to be pink but to my surprise turned orange when I added red colouring! woopsy) 

To decorate
This bit is entirely up to you! Be creative and let the cakes represent you! I used a combination of:
White, milk and dark chocolate chips, chocolate stars, coloured stars, edible glitter, edible silver balls, rainbow drops, sweets. You can also use desiccated coconut, nuts and jellied or dried fruits!

Method
Preheat the oven to 180C. Place cupcake cases in muffin holders and set aside.
Cream together the butter, sugar and vanilla extract in a bowl until fluffy before beating in the eggs. Add the flour and fold in the milk. Spoon the mixture into cases and bake in the oven for 15-20 minutes until they are looking lightly golden and well risen!
For the frosting, beat the softened butter in a bowl and gradually sift in the icing sugar. Beat together until well mixed and stir in the condensed milk and the colouring.
When the cakes have cooled, you can start decorating. Either put the cream in a piping bag fitted with a star nozzle and pipe the icing onto the cakes or spread the icing on the cakes and decorate the tops with chocolate chips etc.! Or you can mix the two methods by spreading the icing evenly on the cake and piping the outside in small concentric circles!




Thursday, 7 July 2011

Gastro-pub-grub at the Tommyfield, Kennington.

The Tommyfield is the sort of place every neighbourhood should have, as I found myself too lazy to cook one evening, it proved to be a great little culinary hideout!
As you enter, the atmosphere will hit you straight away as bustling tables of happy diners (and winers!) and smiling staff come into view. We were welcomed warmly by a waiter who turned out to be very knowledgeable about wine and although suggested which bottle of wine we should have, it wasn’t in that pressurising manner that some pontsy restaurants do to get you to buy the overpriced bottle! We chose a light and summery bottle of Viognier as we both settled on scallops followed by poultry! We had just about made up our minds when we saw some gigantic pies march out of the kitchen and onto the tables next to us. My boyfriend at that point officially changed his mind and went for the chicken pie while I was still set on trying (for the first time ever) some guinea fowl.

Our scallops starters were well-cooked and tasted fresh as well as being very reasonably sized. I loved that they left the corals on, I hate seeing chefs let that tasty little treat go to waste! The parma ham it came with was a little dry in texture however, as I prefer it either uncooked or really crisp, so I felt that let the dish down slightly, otherwise it was a lovely starter!



As soon as the pie arrived on Tom’s side of the table he quickly delved in while my guinea fowl two ways was presented in a pub-grub manner, with plenty of jus and generously sized. The taste was certainly there and the simple elements of the dish came together very well.
All in all, the Tommyfield is a good excuse to get away from your kitchen and offers fantastic comfort food for all. I was also very pleased to see the Tommyfield support the fish fight, so next time I’m in the area, I shall pop back for some sustainable fish and chips!
The Tommyfield on Urbanspoon

Thursday, 3 March 2011

Two-for-One at One-o-One

I have had my eye on this Knighstbridge restaurant for quite some time, as it has had a lot of critical acclaim in the press winning the title of the 9th best restaurant in the UK by the Sunday times. But where is your Michelin star, One-o-One?  
It’s difficult to be critical of a restaurant where they clearly know what they’re doing, and after all, I am just a food blogger! Irrespective of the brilliant time I had here, the meal was not without its imperfections and I’m here to give you an honest account of this highly acclaimed restaurant.
In all honesty, the only way I could ever afford a place like this is with my trusty tastecard, which gave us 50% off the food bill. Before I visit any restaurant I read and re-read the menu a few times because I am extremely indecisive and it could take me over an hour to be happy with a choice. To save the waiter some trouble, I had already planned out my meal upon arrival but as luck would have it, my chosen dishes were not on the menu! I had read a lot about Pascal Proyart’s petit plats menu but was surprised to find it was not available in the evenings. So for a la carte we settled.
With a warm but professional greeting by the maître d, we were led to the dining area which was a little under-occupied, with only 3 other tables taken. The decor was reminiscent of a cruise ship dining room, which is not completely unsuitable as this is a seafood restaurant but it could do with a little modernising! We skipped the wine menu simply because the cheapest bottle was nearing the £40 mark and we were there purely for the food. The waiter was very understanding about this and did not push us on the wine front (so many restaurants ask really, why, are you sure before giving up on you!) and we were quickly offered a selection of fresh breads which we enjoyed alongside a simple creamy butter and a more unique version of a seaweed butter which had my mouth tingling from the salty perfection that it was! While we waited, I must have had about 5 pieces of their bread, as the waiter kept on offering more as soon as the last crumb had disappeared and I was starting to panic that I will be too full from it to enjoy the food! Admittedly, we thought this was a ploy to get us full so we don’t notice the small portions (which is what we had expected from a place like this) but we later discovered they were just as generous with their courses as they were with their bread. We were offered an amuse bouche of a creamy fish soup with some parsnip crisps on the side, which my taste buds accepted as eagerly as I did, a fine combination of silky and crispy.
I chose the starter of red king crab legs from the Barents sea in a sweet chilli ginger sauce (there was the option to have them simply on ice with mayo and lemon or an Italian version with basil olive oil and sauce vierge.). My choice was easy, as the head chef is the ambassador for this incredible sea creature and was responsible for introducing it to this country, therefore he must know what to do with it! I’m a lover of shellfish and the meat of this was sweeter, more succulent and more satisfying than of any lobster or crab I have ever eaten.

My dish had a simple yet enticing presentation of six generous portions of leg and pincer topped with a lightly crisp cheese crust and garnished with a drizzle of the sweet chilli sauce and some coriander leaves (although looking lovely, I had to discard as I’m just not a fan!). On first appearance the legs look difficult to tackle, but I was given a lovely little device for scooping out the tender meat out of the shell and the whole dish was a delight to eat. The cheese topping was inspired and gave the dish a thermidor-ish feel but the sweetness of the sauce was a little overpowering if eaten too generously and I actually left most of the sauce on the plate and enjoyed the crab mostly on its own. Such a beautiful ingredient deserves to be celebrated but not out-sweetened!
I also managed to get a bite out of Tom’s starter of black truffle risotto with more of the king crab (although his portion was smaller than mine) but also had fantastic flavours.
Following on from the starter, was a farm roasted fillet of norwegian halibut on a bed of paimpol coco beans, truffle cassoulet, sauce bisque, parsley puree, carrot puree before being garnished with a butterflied langoustine and a slice of black truffle. Too. Many. Flavours!

As soon as the plate had landed in front of me, a soothing aroma of truffles enticed my senses and I happily tucked in. The halibut was perfectly crisp on top but the meat retained its smoothness. The first bite had me trying the halibut with the sauce bisque (from which the truffle aroma had come from as it was presumably generously drizzled with white truffle oil). Then I tried it with the green sauce, which I guessed was parsley puree, a refreshing twist to the dish. On my third bite I dipped the meat into the carrot puree which was sweet and delicious. But all together? Chaos in my mouth. Not a bad chaos by any means, a very delicious chaos but still too much for such a meaty fish to take on at once. The coco beans were a slight disappointment, I actually didn’t know what to expect from them but I didn’t think they would taste and feel like your regular haricots. Don’t be fooled by the innocent looking langoustine on the side, it erupted with flavour and richness with every (little) bite. I really enjoyed this dish, despite the epidemic of flavours, but I still believe that less is sometimes more. Trying too hard for that Michelin perhaps?
I only had a tiny bite out of Tom’s main, which was a creative combination of pan seared yellow-fin tuna (line caught don’t you worry, fellow fish fighters) and a generous chunk of meaty foie gras garnished with asparagus spears and fondant potatoes.
Although feeling very full, we couldn’t leave without sampling a pudding. We ended up sharing a slightly risqué dessert of white chocolate and juniper berry mousse with lemon sorbet and gin and tonic jelly.

The flavours both satisfied and tickled my palate, the scoops of mousse were delicate and sweet while the sorbet was tangy and refreshing. The chef did not skimp on the textures, giving is a crunchy white chocolate triangle as well as a light and crispy biscuit base and a dramatic topping of tuille. The gin and tonic jelly was...an experience. A little bitter for my taste but luckily a little shaving of mint helped rescue my senses. All-in-all, an interesting dish.
So if your wallet is ever feeling a little heavy and you’re in the mood test your senses, give this one a go. I plan on returning for their lunchtime petit plats menu, come on, I’ve already chosen!


One-O-One on Urbanspoon

Friday, 4 February 2011

Tsuru, Bishopsgate. Simply good sushi.

When I think of a Japanese restaurant in London, I imagine dim lights, low tables and over-priced little bits of fish. Fortunately, Tsuru is nothing like that!
A popular lunchtime destination for the city workers, Tsuru is a cozy dwelling to the best sushi I have ever had and is situated on Bishopsgate near Liverpool street. The decor is not trying to be something it isn’t and this is one of the few places in London I can truly say I’ve had great food without the pretentious atmosphere. The menu features a wide range of Japanese nibbles (or Ippin-Ryouri), super-fresh sets of sushi, as well as traditional Japanese katsu curries and teriyaki dishes. Having tried a katsu curry in Tsuru’s other branch a year ago, and despite being impressed (although I’m not a fan of breaded and deep friend food in general) I wanted to try something a bit more fresh and varied. So Tom and I started with a platter of nigri and maki sushi or “Tsuru premium sushi moriawase” as they call it. The menu gave nothing away and as our platter arrived I was stunned by the beauty of the fresh fish before me, and even more so by the wide variety of it! The rice was light and fluffy, a perfect base for the silky smooth fish. A tuna could have swam out of the sea, filleted itself and jumped onto my plate (I wouldn’t mind nesting on that lovely rice myself) , it had all the flavours of a good quality fish and the wasabi that lie on my plate was left almost untouched. I mean why waste the incredible natural flavours already there by blowing your nose off with overpowering wasabi? I did enjoy the ginger, which was lightly pickled (unlike the overpowering pink stuff you get in yo sushi) and sweet. The maki featured on the platter included king prawns done two ways- one fresh and de-shelled with avocado, the other deep fried in its shell for a good crunch!
Yes once again, bad photography by me. The colours are actually more vivid in real life!

On the right of the picture you may notice 6 more maki, which we ordered alongside our sushi platter. 4 pieces of soft shell crab fried in tempura batter are wrapped in seaweed and sushi while two extra crunchy pieces of crab feature in the other two. It’s great to see what a difference texture can make to a dish even if the ingredients are the same, and we both preferred the less crunchy version, although both were phenomenal! I could have eaten all 6 myself!

We then went for 3 of the Japanese tapas dishes to share, the two you can see in the pictures are a large mackerel fillet, lightly seared and cured and served with a dollop of English mustard on a bed of fine strands of raw carrot, and the other is a carpaccio of salmon with ponzu dressing.
The mackerel had that perfect combination of freshness and smokiness, that I thought one can only achieve by barbequing fish on the beach 10 minutes after catching it. The mustard was pungent and like the wasabi, only good in small doses as the dish on its own is a true celebration of this under-rated fish! The carrots were actually a very clever garnish (which I’m sure some people assume is just there for decorative purposes and don’t even touch it) and provided a burst of refreshing sweetness to contest the delicately smokey fish.
Our salmon carpaccio matched the standards of the other fish, but perhaps a little on the small side (being given fish this good in small amounts is just teasing!). Yet again it was silky and the thin slices had a melt in your mouth quality about them while the zesty ponzu dressing packed a punch and made it impossible for the salmon to simply melt and disappear into the ether! Delicious combination!
Our third dish came out a little later and I’ve forgotten to take a photo. The plate featured three scallops, three meaty king prawns and two and a half baby asparagus spears. The medley was pan fried in garlic butter with some chillies tossed in at the end, but did not pack as much flavour as the rest of the dishes. Maybe I just got used to appreciating the raw form of the fish! As there were two of us and an extra scallop and king prawn left, we ended up playing rock paper scissors to see who would get the last kings prawn (it was scrummy!). Despite losing, I ended up with the prawn due to my boyfriend’s generosity, thanks Tom!


We finished off on a rather curious note with a dessert of ‘Mochi Ice’ (we had a portion each this time to avoid another game of rock paper scissors!), and it is what I can only describe as 3 icey balls of fun! The outer layer consists of a doughy, soft and slightly chewy concoction made from rice (think a cross between cookie dough and bubble gum!) and protects the gooey ice cream centre from melting. The flavours were also unfamiliar to a western palate, the first one is a delicate green tea (or matcha) ice cream filling, but a little sweeter than the real drink. The second was our favourite, a sesame seed crusted exterior revealed a yet another unfamiliar tasting (but again delicately sweet) ice cream centre while the last mochi revealed a zesty punch from a lemon flavoured filling. Aside from the fact I wasn’t sure of the way in which to eat it (quite impossible to get through with a spoon but too cold to hold in your hands), the dessert was extremely refreshing and the perfect way to end an equally impressive dinner.
Everything is fresh, everything is reasonably priced (you should have seen my smile after the 50% discount with my tastecard...) and some chilled, frothy Japanese beer on tap was just the cherry on top of a tasty evening.

Thursday, 3 February 2011

Getting tempted at Tentazioni.

When you find a restaurant you love and can rely on, you may sometimes forget that other fantastic establishments are just waiting to be discovered. Although we were very tempted to return to the Chancery (new menu again!) which we know and love, I thought me and my boyfriend should break out of the habit and try something new that evening!
We were glad we did. Tentazioni is an Italian restaurant, which can be found in a narrow street near Tower Bridge. The first thing to strike me as I entered was the sensual red decor which contrasted with the all white tables and chairs (which were extremely comfortable I must add!), and the sexy theme seemed to continue via the ‘burlesque’ type images on the walls as well as other quirky and colourful art. A staircase within the main dining area leads to a mezzanine area, which is more traditional Italian in its style with brick walls and simple tables and chairs. The two aspects of the dining area mingle to create a cosy but trendy setting.

The name of the restaurant (which means temptation) is reflected in the menu by giving you a wide range of options of real Italian dishes and taking them a step further by using interesting, opulent ingredients. Before we ordered, an amuse bouche of a warm little quiche arrived which put me in the mood for some good hearty food! We both couldn’t resist choosing the foie gras for starter.

Firstly, the picture doesn’t do it justice (my camera was generally playing up all evening, the foie gras was a deep brown colour, the orange in the dish is merely the flash) but I wanted to exemplify with this image the generous size of the portions and the thought that had gone into the dish. The foie gras was a bulky piece of meat, lightly seared to give it that signature silky texture. The flavour of the foie gras alone was enough to justify the slightly steep price tag of £14.50, but its melt-in-your-mouth quality just sent my tastebuds to the moon! The other elements of the dish complemented the star without outshining it. Three pieces of ravioli stuffed with goose meat were a perfect match, the silky pasta outer played on the texture of the foie gras, whilst the inside created a quick burst of meatiness. The mushrooms were flavourful, and again matched the texture of the foie gras, but apart from that did not do very much for me. It seemed the dish was crafted to complement the dish entirely, which was very pleasant indeed but I couldn’t help but wonder how the dish would have panned out (no pun intended!) if some contrasting textures were added to give the dish an extra crunch- and elevate the soft and wispy foie gras to another level!
Continuing in the theme of luxury, I went for the lobster tagliolini next, which I chose from their long hand-made pasta menu, while Tom opted for red mullet with scallops, raisins, parma ham and spinach. I was very delighted when my dish arrived, the portion was HUGE, and I was glad I tentatively chose half of a lobster instead of the whole one.

The dish on the whole was beautifully crafted. Rustically shaped and served al-dente, the pasta was infused with the aroma and colour of saffron before being tossed with artichokes and fresh cherry tomatoes. A generous dollop of black caviar garnished the dish, which I mixed into the pasta to create a sort of extra seasoning; I enjoyed getting a tiny salty pop with each bite! The lobster was garnished with some beautifully creamy butter and was undoubtedly fresh; the meat was easy to get your teeth into and delicately sweet. The chef got the most out of the whole lobster, not just the typically used lobster tail, and I found the lobster claw had the richest flavours. While the sheer size of the dish was unmanageable for me, I savoured every bite that I had and didn’t get bored for a second; that would be impossible with the abundant mixture of flavours and textures the chef has created. The wine list is extensive, and ranges from £13.50 to £99 for a bottle of Italian white wine. Our bottle of wine of choice was a 2009 Salento Bianco, Feudi di San Marzano a fantastic choice by Tom, a professional sommelier couldn’t have done a better job pairing both of our main courses with a bottle of wine! The wine is from Puglia, south of Italy, and consists of mainly the Malaysia grape variety to produce a beautifully full bodied white wine, to compliment our meaty seafood. The subtle honeysuckle overtones pair perfectly with the sweet elements of both our dishes, my sweet lobster meat and the raisins in Tom’s dish while the apple and lemon hints help freshen our palates from the complex mix of flavours in our dishes.
After two big courses and an amuse bouche, the waiter arrived with a dessert menu. While my stomach was telling me no, my curiosity took over and I gave in to temptation and ordered the Chocolate opera cake, “La Scala Milano” served with Espresso Coffee Sauce and 24K Gold. “Have you eaten gold before?” the waiter asked in response to my bemusement and my reply of no ushered a “good luck” from the waiter.

The cake itself was layered with a range of different chocolate elements including what I believe to be milk chocolate mousse, a light chocolate sponge and biscuit jaconde before being topped with a full layer of thin gold leaf. The espresso sauce was a bit too watery and didn’t compliment the base cake while I felt the gold only created the sense of opulence but added little else for the dish. It was a pleasant end to a meal but not as spectacular and theatrical as the menu would suggest.
The overall evening was a success and I’m waiting to return there as soon as the funds allow. While I don’t like to go into detail about restaurants prices, the bill totalled £68, and that’s with a 50% discount on food- and with the likes of foie gras, fresh lobster, saffron, caviar and even gold consumed in one sitting, I can’t help but feel satisfied!

Tempted? Visit http://www.tentazioni.co.uk/restaurant.htm to get the details and book!

Tentazioni on Urbanspoon

Sunday, 2 January 2011

Oh Ma Goa that was a good curry!

Everyone craves a good curry now and again. The nagging craving for something rich and spicy was how we ended up in Ma Goa, an elegant but nevertheless homely family restaurant in Putney.
My ventures to an Indian don’t normally extend past Brick Lane, where in my experience the food and service have been very much hit and miss. The food, ambiance and service exceed that of any Indian I have ever been to; did I mention they have Kingfisher on tap?
Once featured on a BBC show about traditional Indian cooking (Indian Food Made Easy), I chose Gallina Xhacutti, after watching the chef intricately blend the spices for the dish in the Ma Goa kitchen. This chicken dish was delicately tender, arriving on the bone, with a well balanced mix of roasted and ground sesame seeds, peanuts, cumin and coriander before being balanced with fresh ground coconut. The spiciness of the dish (which is warned as being hot) comes from Kashmiri chillies, as well as being used as a natural colourant for the deep brown curry. A selection of traditional breads is available, such as Sanna, Paratha and a selection of Naans. We shared the sweet coconut and chopped nut naan, which was fresh, light and to my delight, not overly chewy like the shop-bought ones typically are. I also sampled the Paratha bread, which is made with whole-wheat and fried in butter, an interesting alternative to the naan. I was reluctant to order poppadoms and chutneys, which I find only add to the final bill and not much else; boy was I wrong! The dips that accompanied the crunchy poppadoms were nothing as expected. The mint dip was light and refreshing while my personal favourite which I never got the chance to ask about tasted like an Indian version of satay sauce, so nutty and sweet! My side of coconut basmati was fragrant and fluffy with fresh coconut grated in for flavour (nothing unnatural in this meal!), garnished with curry leaves and arranged in a rustic porcelain pot.

The portion sizes are very fair, so much so that if I’d ordered a starter, a lot of good food would have been wasted. The decor is what you would expect in a modern restaurant, trendy with white table cloths, with attention-grabbing art and neutral decor. Our waiter was never without a smile and seemed very courteous. This Goan was traditional but with a modern twist, so next time you’re on a mission for a decent curry, forget about Brick Lane and head on over to Ma Goa!
I’m choosing to return to Ma Goa soon enough, but for those who are unable to make the trip, here is the recipe for my chicken xhacutti which can be found on the BBC website, straight from their kitchen:  http://www.bbc.co.uk/indianfoodmadeeasy/recipes/episode_5/xacutti.shtml

Ma Goa’s website: http://www.ma-goa.com
Ma Goa on Urbanspoon

Wednesday, 17 November 2010

New chef means new review! The Chancery- revisited.

If you’ve ever found out that your favourite restaurant has replaced their head chef, you may well understand my feelings of disappointment and loss when I found out that the Chancery’s executive chef Daniel Guerrero has been replaced with Steven Englefield. While I was a little nervous, I decided to revisit the Chancery but with a completely blank culinary canvas in mind! In a party of 6, consisting of me, my boyfriend and his family we arrived at the Chancery on a busy Friday evening.
The restaurant looked as welcoming as ever, with dim but warming lighting complimenting the slick black and white decor. Home-made bread and butter arrived at the table very quickly and we were pleased with a swift service at the start of what was panning out to be an impressive evening. The little touches were charming, like if you for any reason leave your seat you can expect to return with your napkin swiftly refolded! It was a lovely moment when an amuse bouche of a smooth wild mushroom soup arrived, which was when I realised that even if the chef was different, the restaurant has kept its values!
The creamy mushroom concoction glided in the mouth, leaving me with an intensely packed combination of rich mushroom and delicate crème fraiche flavours, pretty impressive for something arriving in a ceramic shot glass. The silky texture meant that even the mushroom-phobe of the group gave the soup a thumbs up! I selected a starter of ‘Foie gras, ham hock and white bean terrine’. The foie gras was at the centre of the terrine, which to me symbolised the highlight of the dish! The flavours of this velvety pate supplied the central character of decadence while the surrounding ham hock and white beans added weight to the terrine. The chef chose to pair this with a side of piccalilli, making the dish even more British (a good idea, as the terrine came with toasted brioche instead of the crispy country bread suggested on the menu!). I’m still uncertain as to whether the terrine and the piccalilli tied together. With something as delicate and refined as foie gras, you would expect a subtle yet sweet chutney to lift the dish so overpowering does not become an issue. However, I felt the acidity of the piccalilli slightly overpowered the foie gras, but that doesn’t necessarily mean I didn’t like it. I though the piccalilli on its own was pungent and tantalizing and combined well with the ham hock element which was meaty- and very British! Maybe I’ll never make up my mind! Our wine of choice was Momo 2007 Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, which had subtle acidity lifted by refined aromas of citrus and gooseberries.

The main course of monkfish, tiger prawns, peperonata and a banyules vinegar dressing was a tongue-tingling choice. Although the portion was on the small side, I enjoyed that the dish was light with a Spanish kick, made me wish it was summertime and I was chilling by the beach in costa blanca! Saffron potatoes were a cheeky addition that cut through the acidity of the vinegar dressing as well as adding certain opulence to the dish.

The palate cleanser that arrived at the table was a slightly controversial basil sorbet with sweet tomato granita. It agreed with my taste buds, but did it agree with my brain, that was in the process of preparing itself for something sweet and calorific?  I thought it was an interesting idea and certainly refreshing and flavourful, but some of the guests and I agreed that it would have been more appropriate between the starters and the main courses.
My dessert, a smooth rich and super-indulgent chocolate marquise, on the other hand, caused no doubts what so ever. Paired with crushed hazelnuts, a frangelico and coffee ice cream as well as a thin caramel bar for extra ‘crunch’ it was a sensational end to a meal. The chocolate was not as bitter as you might predict in a decadent dessert like a marquise. I was really pleased with this as the soft bitterness of the coffee ice cream gave the dessert just enough of a kick without taking away the sweetness, while the drizzle of cream was adequate in bringing together and calming the flavours.

The meal ended in a slightly slower and less efficient service with coffee and liqueurs taking some time to arrive; nonetheless it was a very pleasant meal. The petit fours we received with our coffees included mini coconut macaroons and melt in the mouth dark chocolate truffles.
So The Chancery remains a restaurant I would recommend to all Londoners. While my last review was suggesting the portions were slightly too big, I find myself eating my words. Now even though I’m not raving about the size of my monkfish fillet, I can’t help but wonder, if it had been bigger would I have been able to sample the delicious chocolate marquise? Probably not. Lesson learnt; stop being greedy and just enjoy every bite. You know it’s a good sign when you are left wanting more!

Wednesday, 3 November 2010

London’s little gems...a quick look at my favourite North African, French, and Fusion restaurants.

I would love to share with you some of my favourite international restaurants in London but as I have limited time and a limited memory (most of these places I visited last year), I will just give you a quick overview and the rest you can see for yourself, should you act on my recommendations!
Kenza
As you follow the rose petals towards the entrance of this exotic restaurant, you can’t help but feel transported into an entirely different continent. The light looks dimmer, the colours more vibrant and the atmosphere feels more intimate as soon as you step inside. The decor of the place was the predominant highlight for me, while belly dancers and Arabic music also added to the North African ambience and were thoroughly entertaining. We shared a range of ‘mezzes’ instead of your typical ‘a la carte’ arrangement which meant we got to try many authentic Lebanese and Moroccan dishes. The muhamara- a walnut, red pepper and pomegranate dip was a fantastic accompaniment to the home made flat breads. I have since attempted to recreate muhamara, but failed to achieve the sweet yet pungent nuttiness we found in Kenza’s version. Other dishes included a range of sambousek (warm Moroccan patties stuffed with a choice of meat, vegetables or seafood) Soujok (little spicy sausages from Lebanon) as well as halloumi, chicken livers, tiger prawns and sauté potatoes with a kick. We may have found ourselves over-ordering, but the menu was so vast and exciting we found it hard to say no! This place would be perfect for larger parties so you can feast on a wide variety of mezzes whilst enjoying the party atmosphere of this charming North African restaurant.
Village East
With a vibrant atmosphere and a unique menu, Village East did not fail to impress me! The chef combines good, British ingredients with a touch of the exotic. My starter of scallops and pork belly combined with carrot puree and caramelized in a teriyaki glaze worked brilliantly in an east meets west sort of way. Our less exotic main of an 18oz chateaubriand was of exceptional quality and came with crispy châteaux potatoes and béarnaise sauce. Everything was cooked perfectly, and the generous portions left us with no room for dessert! The service was pleasant but in no way over-powering and the restaurant as a whole had this trendy, fast-paced vibe about it that would be more suited for an after-work dinner rather than somewhere to celebrate a special occasion (although your taste buds will be doing plenty of celebrating for you!). Some other exciting food items on the menu that tempted me include a sauted foie gras burger, Moroccan inspired “Chermoula spiced poussin” with tabouleh as well as an Asian-stlye “white miso skate wing” with sticky rice, bok choi and ginger. If you’re in one of those moods where you just don’t know what you fancy for dinner, give Village East a try where there will certainly be something on the menu to tempt you!
Le Chardon (Clapham)
A busy, neighbourhood bistro, Le Chardon specialises in modern French cuisine in the heart of Clapham. I was particularly impressed with the starter of foie gras with red onion marmalade and French brioche, which was the major influencing factor in my choice of a second visit. The sea bass, served whole was complimented perfectly by the wide range of herbs, and don’t get me started on their dauphinoise potatoes which arrived at the table still bubbling in cream! Perhaps not one for the weight-watchers amongst you...I would also recommend the duck breast in orange sauce, a classic combination that does wonders for the taste buds! The atmosphere is relaxed but retains its elegance with unique art displayed on the walls which you may even choose to purchase! This place would be perfect for a romantic yet an informal date.

Sunday, 31 October 2010

Gazette, Battersea in under 500 words...

I chose this restaurant for a quiet evening to celebrate my mum’s birthday, even though it was in an inconvenient location, I read some great reviews about the place and thought I should give it a try! Situated within a residential area in Battersea, Gazette offers simple, rustic French food in a relaxed setting.
After spending a great deal of time trying to reach Gazette, we were a little disappointed that our reservation has somehow got ‘lost’ (despite booking a week in advance) but we were reassured very quickly and seated in a cosy area surrounded by quirky little items like old books, bottles and even a rustic accordion! It was an interesting concept, which was further played on by serving all their food in rustic pots and pans and even large slates of wood. The restaurant put a lot of effort into creating that authentic look and I was interested to see whether the food would have that authentic taste. My starter of moules mariniere was a delicious classic combination of white wine, shallots, parsley and mussels served in a huge, steaming pot. I was very impressed with the size of the dish and it took me almost half an hour to polish off! My mum’s starter of duck terrine was also a substantial, hearty portion of a simple but tasty country-style terrine. Our basket of fresh, warm bread and creamy butter was a fantastic addition to both our starters; I particularly enjoyed mopping up my white wine sauce with the crunchy country bread!


Our mains of sea bass were tender and fresh and came on a sharing pan of beautiful steamed vegetables.
The mains were uncomplicated but still full in flavour, and the side of simply-cooked vegetables left me feeling full but healthy, giving me an excuse to indulge in a calorie-packed dessert! I had initially chosen a praline soufflé which was ironically described on the menu as “cooked with patience”. However when it arrived I found it was completely undercooked, a real shame as it looked impressive in size and smelt so delicious! After spending quite some time in getting a waiter’s attention, I replaced my choice with a crème brulee instead. It was less dramatic in appearance but had the classic flavour and texture as expected from a crème brulee.


Overall, the service was pleasant but a little slow. The food was simple but authentic and despite the incident with the soufflé (which is notoriously difficult to get right!) very enjoyable. The other customers were enjoying some of the theatre involved in the presentation of the food, including a sea bream cooked in pastry which was presented to the customer whole before being uncovered by one of the waiters at the table. If Gazette was in a more central location, I would certainly give it another go.  As the menu changes on a daily basis, it would be interesting to see what the chef would serve up next!

Tuesday, 26 October 2010

Fine Wine and British Seasonal Food at the White Swan: an evening to remember!

Every so often I come across a restaurant that I just have to rave about to everyone who is around long enough for me to say hello. The White Swan happens to be one of them. I discovered this little gem near chancery lane two years ago, when my boyfriend booked a valentines dinner there as a surprise. When I walked in, my initial reaction was “A pub? Really?” but as we were led upstairs, to a warm and contemporary dining room was when I started to appreciate the sheer simplicity, warmth and ambiance of the place. Two visits later, I sit here writing about my most recent visit to the one of the White Swan’s wine and food tasting evenings.
 5 delicious courses, 5 fantastic glasses of wine, carefully paired together to create an unforgettable dining experience. The stars of this evening were a wide variety of award winning ‘Hunter’s’ Marlborough wines, and we were privileged to learn so much about it as the founder of Hunter’s came all the way from New Zealand to promote her gorgeous wines. I would love to share some of the interesting facts and history of Hunter’s but as I have 5 different courses to discuss I will just direct you to their website http://www.hunters.co.nz/
Citrus-cured Isle of Man king scallop, apple and fennel salad
This was the first dish to arrive at the table so I knew it would be the dish that would either heighten or lower the expectations of the evening. The dish was simply but gracefully presented as disks of cured (thus raw!) scallops were centred in a circle on a white plate with thin shavings of apple and fennel positioned on top. It tasted just as delicate as it looked, with a hint of citrus coming through the subtle taste of the scallops. The fennel and apple shavings contributed a fine tanginess to the dish, creating a palate-cleansing marriage! A starter like that does exactly what it’s supposed to do; tickle the taste-buds, refresh your senses and make you crave more. The wine accompanying the dish was a 2009 Sauvingon Blanc, winner of 13 wine awards, including a gold award in the global sauvignon blanc competition “Concours Mondial du Savignon Blanc 2010”. It really wasn’t difficult to see why it won so many privileges. The wine was preserved in a stainless steel container and lacked any oak quality, thus exposing fragrant tropical fruit aromas as well as some crisp characters of gooseberries. The wine had an acidic element which paired wonderfully with the citrus aspect of the dish.
(Picture unavailable due to impatience,hunger and an unreliable memory!)
Braised south coast brill, truffle crushed celeriac, oxtail beignet.
This dish was definitely one of the highlights for me (just brill-iant). The fillet of Brill was so tender and delicious, one of the best fish dishes I have ever eaten. Matched with the celeriac, which was cleverly infused with truffle aromas to add a tantalizing flavour to the dish, the brill almost melted in my mouth while the oxtail beignet was a fantastic addition of texture and meatiness. The juxtaposition of the soft , silky brill paired with a multi-dimensional oxtail beignet, so crisp on the outside and meaty and rich on the inside is a true celebration of British food. The wine match was a barrel fermented Kaho Roa Sauvignon Blanc (2007), which had a more dry and oaky quality, a less fruity wine than the previous Sauvignon Blanc but more crisp with a lingering finish which worked particularly well with the oxtail part of the dish.


Pot roasted Yorkshire quail, quail sausage roll, chanterelle and artichoke ragout.
This dish was a complex combination of four different elements that went so brilliantly together! The quail, done in two ways, provided the hearty factor. The breast was pink and tender while the quail sausage roll put the seasonal aspect back into the evening- so warming and wholesome, just what I would expect on a chilly autumn evening! The chanterelles and artichokes also played on the seasons, as the vivid wild mushroom taste and the rooty grilled artichoke almost brought out an image of walking through a forest with all the fresh smells of mushrooms and earth. Hence why the wine, a Pinot Noir, was such a brilliant match as the rich red wine had a definite forest fruits overtone which really captured that woodland walk image for me! The wine was fragrant and light compared to your typical red, my first impression was “cherries!” which underpinned the forest floor aromas. Sensational!



The cheese and the dessert
The last two courses consisted of May Hill Green cheese with some grapes and toasted bread followed by tantalizing lemon parfait. May Hill Green cheese, despite its preconceptions of being a mature perhaps blue-type cheese, is a soft, pasteurised cow’s milk cheese with a somewhat pungent quality, not dissimilar to that of stinking bishop! It gets its colourful name from the green appearance of the rind, which is coated in nettles. While the previous course had transported me to a forest, this cheese course had no trouble in taking me to a farmland! The creamy and delicate texture of the cheese was cut through by the 2009 Hunter’s Gewurztraminer, a dry and weighty white wine. I always find that something as rich as cheese needs to be balanced out (perhaps a nice chutney could have helped) but luckily the crisp, almost zesty wine did just that, as well as prepare the taste buds for the final course!

The lemon parfait was a perfect finish to a perfect meal. Acting as a pudding as well as a palate cleanser, the parfait was cold and creamy and did not compromise on texture which was smooth yet riddled with strands of lemon zest to give the taste buds a refreshing kick! The pudding factor came in the form of three homemade honey madeleines. While rustic in appearance, these sweet, sugary treats really spruced up the dessert and gave me something to use as a dipping device once the parfait began to melt. To complete the dish, the raspberry sauce tied together the sweet and the sour and established a perfect balance for the palate. Now, I have never been a huge fan of dessert wine, I mean why have something even sweeter than the pudding? I normally choose to have a coffee or a tea to compliment my dessert but as this was not arriving until later with the petit fours, I had no choice but to sample the Riesling Hukapapa (2009). Good thing I’m not stubborn, as that wine was delicious with a capital d! A late harvest Riesling, Hukapapa is sweet and fruity wine, with subtle undertones of honeysuckle and caramel. The combination of the wine and the dessert created a sweet but sharp finish and left me (and all the other diners around me) perfectly satisfied!

If you are a lover of great food and great wine, hurry to one of the white swan’s tasting evenings! For a party of 2, expect a bill around the £100 mark (including service charge.) but when you think of just how much you will get for your money, you will leave with that ‘money well spent’ feeling. Fresh bread on arrival, five enticing taste sensations, five different wine tastings (expect your glass regularly topped up too!), coffee and petit fours, friendly customer service and a talk with a winemaker or sommelier; bring a good friend and you will have great company for a very special dining experience.
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Thursday, 7 October 2010

The Butcher and Grill- ditch your expectations and just experience it.

Hovering under the sign for the Butcher and Grill, I was confused at the lack of a restaurant before me. It wasn’t until I stepped inside what seemed like a regular butchers-come-delicatessen from the outside, that I noticed the dim lights and several tables nestled on a podium towards the back of the room. I was confused by the concept at first, my expectations had crashed but my curiosity was lifted. Looking around, black and white pictures of farm animals (particularly cows) stood out, the restaurant seemed cosy with warming but dim lighting and wooden tables. Having got over the element of surprise, I looked at the menu which too was not what I was expecting (different to what is advertised on their website). For a restaurant specialising in meat, many seafood dishes seemed to steal the show in the form of oysters (cooked and raw) as well as other sea catches like clams and tuna. From my previous experience of visiting specialist restaurants, I find that a lot of effort goes into their specialties but the standard drops when it comes to the rest of the menu. Like whenever I visit a seafood restaurant I find myself disappointed by the meat dishes, so when I chose an all seafood starter and main course, I was weary. As our starters arrived, I was not disappointed! My spaghetti with clams in the classic white wine sauce with parsley and shallots looked and tasted exactly how I wanted! At £6.50 (before discount) for a substantial bowl, I was impressed and craved even more. The sauce was light but still elevated the flavour of the clams, which had a gorgeous texture to add to the dish. I am pleased to say that the dish was worth all the fiddling around with shells and spaghetti! My boyfriend’s starter of tempura oysters looked beautiful nested back in their shells which were balancing on a bed of coarse sea salt, a feast for the eyes, no doubt. (Picture below)


Expectations raised, we awaited the main courses. That was when we noticed the music that was playing in the background (I tend to immerse myself so fully in the food when dining I don’t tend to notice anything else around me). A mix of the smiths and nirvana was contributing to the already-verging-on-odd atmosphere but it was actually kind of nice! Pondering the curiosity of our meal, my main arrived in the form of yet another surprise. It didn’t look like a main course at all, in fact it was served on the same rectangular slate the oysters had made an appearance in earlier and it looked a tad on the small side for the £14.50 price. 3 scallops were symmetrically positioned between spoonfuls of herby crushed potatoes and topped with small cuts of the red mullet I was expecting to arrive in full form. This was not a portion for a man and I was happy to see my boyfriend enjoying a 10 ounce rib-eye that came straight from the butchers downstairs. Putting the size aside, the dish did have some very nice flavours that may have occasionally been overpowered by the over-peppered red mullet. However, the potatoes did a good job of balancing out the flavours and I was thoroughly enjoying the whole plate, even if the sauce vierge didn’t have much to contribute. The scallops were nice and meaty and even filled me up enough to forget all about dessert. I enjoyed a nice 2007 Senorio Rose wine from the Navarra region, which was light, sweet and fruity and broke through the bitterness of the red mullet.

The Butcher and Grill has a concept, perhaps an unconventional one. I guess walking through a butchers to get to your table isn’t up to everyone’s standards but then you know exactly where the meat is coming from and if that doesn’t impress you, you even have the option to choose your cut, there and then. If that doesn't please those picky diners, I don't know what will!

Butcher and Grill's website: http://www.thebutcherandgrill.com/

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Saturday, 28 August 2010

Like the sun setting over the Spanish coast. A look at L Restaurant, Kensington.

In the heart of Kensington, L Restaurant stands out from their many competitors with its contemporary Spanish theme. Set over two floors, including a main dining area and a slim mezzanine area overlooking the diners on ground level it is a sleek but open feel. The decor is warm and somewhat romantic, with domineering red complimenting wooden framed mirrors on one wall which contrasts with the warm sandy wall on the other side. In addition, candlelight floods the room making it an ideal setting for a date. I came to L Restaurant with my boyfriend’s family, due to its prestigious location and availability on my tastelondon card. We were all impressed with the atmosphere and the friendly but not pushy service. We settled on a bottle of Spanish white wine for before ordering our starters. The wine list was comprehensive and ranges in price starting from £14 while the priciest bottle is a French red at £90.
My starter of scallop risotto was a heavy start to the dinner, perhaps a little more glutinous than I had expected and to my disappointment, featured merely one scallop finely chopped. The flavour of the scallop came through on the occasional bite while the dish was dominated by the Sobrasada paste, a Majorcan specialty made out of red sausage and paprika. A manchego cheese crisp decorated the dish nicely as well as giving it another level. It almost seasoned the dish with its subtle piquant crispiness, a delight in terms of texture and flavour. The others settled on crispy goats cheese with a red pepper and pine nut salad. It wasn’t until a later look at the menu that they realised their goats cheese came with an unimpressive side of lettuce garnish- no peppers or pine nuts to be seen.
 The main course was the star for me, a succulent duck breast on a bed of spinach served beautifully in a circle around a whole poached pear. The pear was poached in a deep red wine and gave the dish a dramatic look, as well as taste. The spinach was wilted to perfection and cut through the rich pear to balance the intense flavours. The duck was cooked to my liking, pink on the inside, crisp on the outside and almost melted in my mouth. We chose a dry red wine which went very well with my main. Portion size was fair and left me with just enough room to sample dessert. I could not resist trying the chocolate fondant which was served with pineapple sorbet in a brandy snap basket. An odd combination but a mouth watering one, the fondant was decent but the highlight was the sorbet. It was a refreshing end to a heavy meal, at the risk of sounding cliché I must add that the sweet tanginess of it almost transported me to a tropical island and with the decor reminding me of the sun setting over the Spanish coast- it was a nice touch. If only the menu separated the two elements of the dish altogether.


On top of the A La Carte menu, L restaurant offers a tapas menu with plenty to choose from. The evening was a pleasant one and I would happily recommend a visit to L restaurant in Kensington but perhaps choose a more balanced menu than I did!